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INSTALLATION MANUAL

Pool Kits USA Installation Manual - Section V

Testing the Plumbing for Leaks

First construct a pressure test device as illustrated.  Apply Teflon tape to the test device and insert it into the top of the skimmer.  Hand tighten only. Place the pump valve on full skimmer and the multi-port filter valve on full filter.  Hook up a garden hose to the test device and turn the water on allowing the plumbing to fill with water.

When water comes through the inlets, shut off the water and plug the inlets with 1-1/2 inch PVC threaded plugs.  Turn on the water until the pressure gauge reads 25-30 psi.  Shut off valve on the test device and watch the pressure gauge.  If the lines have a leak, the gauge will show a drop in pressure, usually very quickly.  Visually inspect all pipes and fittings for drips or leaks of any kind.  Repair and replace plumbing where necessary.  Release the pressure in the system.  Now you may begin to balance your pool water chemistry.  If there are no leaks, you are now ready to backfill your pool.

Backfilling the Over Dig

When backfilling the over dig it is useful to have a string set up along the coping of the long sides of the pool to assure you maintain straight walls.  It is possible for the pool walls to get pushed inward during the backfill procedure if your equipment i.e. backhoe or Bobcat, get too close to the wall.  Pool walls that get pushed inward must be dug out by hand all the way down to the footing.  This allows the water pressure to push it back out.  The water level in the pool should be at least half way up the vertical walls to help offset the pressure of the backfill.  Do not fill the pool any higher than one to two inches (1"- 2") below the bottom of the skimmer before backfilling the over dig or risk of over stressing the pool walls may result.

When using earthmoving equipment such as a caterpillar, backhoe, front end loader or Bobcat, machinery must be kept a minimum of three feet (3') away from the pool walls at all times.  This means extra hand work, but the extra effort will more than offset the risk of caving in a pool wall.

During the backfilling process, be careful to remove any large rocks, cinders, large roots or other debris.  Clean sand, river run, pea gravel, or small grade limestone are all excellent backfill materials.  The plumbing should be supported or arranged in the trench as to avoid excessive stress on the plumbing pipes.  Backfill the over dig up to the top of the pool wall panel, not to the concrete decking.  Once the pool is completely backfilled, fill the pool with water to the middle of the skimmer opening.

Excessive water soaking around the pool to help "settle" the backfill should be avoided because of the possibility of water seeping under the footing and in turn, floating the liner.  This can also wash fine grit in behind the liner.  The best method for compacting the backfill is to rent a high frequency power soil compactor ( plate style compactor) available at most rental shops.  This tool can be operated somewhat close to the pool walls and is by far the fastest, most effective way of reducing future settling problems.

Final grading and contouring of the backfill should take in consideration the area and drainage of the pool deck and the drainage of the surrounding yard with the purpose of channeling the rain or snow runoff away from the pool.

Forming the Deck Area

The deck is now ready to be formed using 4 inch x 8 foot strips of 1/4 inch masonite for curved decks or regular 2 x 4's for straight decks.  Measure back from coping the width of your deck at both ends of the long side of your pool and run a string.  This will ensure you of a straight deck.  Form deck three to four feet (3'- 4') wide all around the pool, and six to eight feet (6'-8') around the diving board and step areas.  Screed backfill inside the forms to maintain constant depth of 3-1/2 to 4 inches minimum, while maintaining elevation of the form.  Stake your forms about once every three feet (3'). Backfill dirt against the form for additional rigidity.  The top of the form should be one inch (1") below the top of the coping for a four foot (4') wide deck thus giving a fall of 1/4 inch per foot.  Be sure to mount safety rope anchors and coping clips before pouring the deck.  Make sure the back side of the rope anchors are exposed to allow concrete to hold re-bar.  Be sure to expose the tops of the poly struts to allow the concrete to bond to them.  Finally, put 3 foot pieces of 3/8 inch re-bar through the holes provided at the top of the panel and bend them down so they will be embedded in the concrete deck.

Diving Board Installation

For specific requirements of diving board jig placements, consult manufacturers instructions.  NSPI pool types ( needed for jig placement) are printed in the lower left hand corner of each construction print.

Be sure that the diving board jigs are in line with the center line of the pool, level, and plumb.  If concrete jigs are not properly set, the board installation will appear crooked and not function properly.  Do not mount or use the diving board for at least five (5) days after concrete is poured.

Ladder Placement

Place the ladder over the pool wall in the middle of the deep end slope for easy access by divers and swimmers exiting the deep end of the pool.  If there is no step section, a second ladder must be placed in the shallow end.  Swimming pools with a walk in step are required to have at least one handrail on either side of, or in the middle of the step.  A shallow end ladder is not necessary with a walk out step.

Assemble the ladder according to manufacturers instructions.  Be sure to seat the rubber bumper pieces securely to the bottom of the rails to protect the liner from puncture.  Put the chrome escutcheon rings on each ladder rail.  Insert rail ends into the anchor sockets and tighten the securing wedges, making sure rails are fully inserted and bottomed inside of the anchor sockets.  Prepare step hand rails in the same manner for the escutcheons and anchor sockets.  Electrical bonding set screws are located on the back of the anchor sockets.  When the deck is poured and screeding is finished, place the ladder assembly in the concrete.  The ladder should be placed level, plumb and parallel with the pool wall, and the anchor sockets should be completely encased in concrete and flush with the surface.  Do not use the ladder for at least five (5) days after the concrete is poured.  Clean off any concrete splatters within 24 hours of pouring the deck.  Spraying WD-40 on rails before pouring will make cleaning much easier.  Removing the hand rail and ladder to wash with a grease cutting soap will help keep your rails from turning.  Slide the escutcheons over the anchor sockets so they lay flat onto the concrete after it has been poured, and cured.

Electrical Bonding

Any metallic hardware or accessories around the pool site must be grounded (bonded) to a common ground.  For specific requirements on electrical bonding of swimming pools, the builder must consult the current National Electric Code Handbook or local electrical inspectors office.

NOTE: Wiring, splicing and grounding of the junction box and pool equipment should be done only by a licensed electrician. Electrical bonding must be completed and have an inspectors approval before pouring the deck.

Pouring the Concrete Deck

Before pouring the deck check:

• All forms for 1/4 inch per foot fall

• All pool walls to insure they are still straight

• Grade for constant 3 - 1/2 to 4 inch depth

• All coping clips, insuring that they are in place

• The rope anchors, to insure the re-bar is exposed to bond with the concrete deck

• The diving board jig for NSPI standards, and to see that it is centered

• The electrical bonding of the pool

• The re-bar, to insure it is in the top holes of the panels and will bond to the concrete deck

• The skimmer extension collar, to see that it is in place

The following instructions assume the reader is familiar with basic concrete finishing techniques.  If you do not have any previous experience with concrete flatwork, it may be advisable to subcontract this part of the installation.  Because the concrete deck is the finishing touch to the general appearance and quality of the pool installation, this may be best handled by a professional crew.

Planning the Pour

Order concrete a day or two in advance from a local ready-mix company.  Figure the amount by measuring the total square footage of the deck area. Divide the total by 75.  The result equals the yards of concrete needed ( total square footage divided by 75= yards).  The figure 75 is used for pools to allow for the extra volume of concrete that goes into the back side of the coping, under the wall, etc..  Order a 6 bag mixture for the deck using limestone only, with a four (4) to six (6) inch slump.

Do not pour the deck on a day when rain is in the forecast.  Covering concrete work during a rain is possible, but in the case of a swimming pool deck, it is made considerably more difficult with the ladder, step handrails, and diving board stands.  Have all the concrete tools on sight before starting.  It is also advisable to have two (2) concrete wheel barrows on hand as well.  Most pools don't have enough access for a concrete delivery truck to reach the entire perimeter of the pool, and hand wheeling will become necessary.  Before the concrete arrives, mask off the top edge of the coping to protect it from the concrete finishing process.  Use the best quality duct tape you can buy to mask off the coping.  Be careful not to let the tape lap over coping edge because the concrete will chip when the tape is pulled off.

Final Placement and Finishing

Place concrete into forms and strike off the surface with a screed board.  Be extremely careful to keep concrete from falling into the pool water. Concrete in the pool throws the pool chemistry off balance, makes cleanup much more difficult, and can even clog and ruin the plumbing, filter and vinyl liner.

Screeding should leave concrete flush with the top surface of the coping.  Also screed concrete flush with the top edge of the skimmer opening.  Proceed with the usual steps for concrete finishing.  Add redwood or PVC expansion materials, or score the crack joints in the deck at four to six feet (4'- 6') intervals around the perimeter.  The final finish must be made with a concrete broom to produce a non-skid surface.  Chlorinated pool water on slick troweled concrete creates an extremely slippery and dangerous surface.

Final Cleanup

Be sure to remove the duct tape masking from the coping within the first 12 hours after finishing the concrete.  Any concrete splatters remaining on the coping, vinyl liner, hand rails, and ladders, should also be cleaned at this time.  Start the filtration system and vacuum the pool as well.  Failure to do so will result in more difficult cleaning later.

Decorative Decks

Many different types of finishing can produce beautiful and decorative deck designs.  Exposed aggregate, epoxy stone, Flo-Crete, Sun-Deck,  C ool deck, or colored concrete can be used.  Crack joints can be applied in a random pattern to create a natural flagstone effect.

Fencing Around Pool

All swimming pools are required to be fenced in to limit pool access.  Check with local code requirements for swimming pool fencing.  

Installation of Safety Rope

Slide floats onto the rope and attach with a rope clamp on one rope eye.  Measure the length of the rope with the snap swivel hook attached at the other end of the safety line, and clamp and cut off excess rope.

Summary of Important Tips

1. All fittings and clamps must be absolutely watertight.  Leaks can mean expensive repairs later.  Pressure testing is essential.
2. Pool should be placed at least three to four inches (3"- 4") above existing grade. If pool must be placed any lower, make sure that water drainage from surrounding high ground won't collect around the pool.  If you have no other choice, place drain tile around the bottom of the pool next to the footing to drain water away.
3. Pool must be absolutely level.  Check and recheck with transit before pouring concrete footing around the base of the pool walls.
4. Diving board jigs should be properly positioned with center line of pool, level, and plumb.
5. Never backfill with shale, rocks, or cinders.  River run, pea gravel, or sand makes the best backfill.
6.Never turn on the underwater light unless there is water in the pool.  Pool lights are water cooled.

"ENJOY"

Manual Table of Contents     Section I     Section II     Section III     Section IV     Section V