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INSTALLATION MANUAL

Pool Kits USA Installation Manual - Section IV

Installation of the Liner

The first step for installation of the liner is to wipe down the pool walls with a rag to remove any dirt or vermiculite that may be stuck to the walls.  Next, tape the pool wall joints with duct tape to create and air seal preventing air form leaking through wall joints while the liner is vacuumed into place.  The tape should extend from the bottom edge of coping down to the top edge of the vermiculite bottom material.  It is also recommended that you tape the back side edge of the coping on the top of the pool panel to improve the air seal for fitting liner.

Method # 1

After the vermiculite bottom has been completed, the liner should be rolled out onto the ground, preferably on grass, to remove the packaging wrinkles. If it is an extremely hot or sunny day, do not leave the liner out too long, it will become soft in the heat and stretch too easily.  When the liner is ready to install, roll it up on a four inch (4") diameter aluminum irrigation irrigation pipe at least three feet (3') longer than the width of the pool.  Be careful when rolling out the liner not to pick up any leaves, stones, twigs or dirt, on liner bottom.  Stand 2 x 4's on edge on top of the panels, just behind the coping, to avoid the liner pole bending the coping.  Be sure to tape the pole where it contacts the coping if the 2 x 4's are not used.

Set the rolled up liner and pipe on top of the pool wall at the shallow end so it will unroll from shallow to deep.  Begin installation of the liner aligning center of liner with center of pool.  Unroll the liner and place the liner bead in liner track under the coping, across the end and down the sides to the break.  Stop and check at this point for proper liner alignment.  This can be done by comparing the position of the corner seams to the corners of the pool wall.  Readjust the liner in the shallow end if necessary to center and make each corner match.  Proceed down each side towards the deep end.  Be very careful not to stretch the liner perimeter while installing.  If more perimeter is needed during the final stages of installation, stretch the liner along the sides of the pool.  Unroll liner off pole as needed while installing.  Check the deep end corners for alignment.  If all the corners are properly aligned you are ready to vacuum the liner into place.

Method # 2

Using this method will require extra installation time.  After the vermiculite is firm enough to walk on, usually by the next day, place the liner in the shallow end, rolled up as it comes from the carton.  Be sure to sweep out any debris that may be in the pool bottom.  Position liner at the shallow end wall and unroll down the center of the pool towards the deep end.  Continue rolling the liner down the slope and into the deep end.  Begin installation of the shallow end of the pool aligning as is in Method # 1.  Sometimes it is helpful to place a few of your filter's sand bags in the corners of the shallow end to keep them in place while you snap the liner bead into the coping in the rest of the pool.

Vacuuming Liner Into Place

If a step section is to be used, install the step face plate before vacuuming the liner.  Be sure liner is correctly aligned in the pool before proceeding.  After complete liner installation, prepare to vacuum the liner into place with two (2) commercial type vacuums or heavy-duty shop vacs.  Tape a vacuum hose between the liner and the wall panel at the break, and another hose on the opposite side at the break.  If preferred, one hose may be run through the skimmer opening.  Be sure to seal all air leaks with duct tape.  Places that need to be sealed to prevent air leaks are:
1. Panel joints, (taped before the liner is dropped) 2. Return fitting inlets (on the outside of the wall) 3. Skimmer plumbing inlets 4. Around vacuum hoses on top of skimmer 5. Light conduit connection or deck box if installed 6. Ends of any plumbing that might already be installed.

At this point two (2) or three (3) crew members should position themselves behind the shallow end wall in the 2 foot over dig area, while another crew member prepares to turn on the vacuums.  The crew members behind the shallow end wall can reach into the pool and grasp the liner near the seam at the bottom of the wall.  They should then pull the liner upward towards the top of the wall and hold it in place.  Turn the vacuums on and hold the liner in pulled position.  This will draw the liner up into the shallow end until the deep end is fitted by the suction of the vacuums.  This procedure will minimize excessive stretching of the liner into the deep end.  As the vacuum pressure increases behind the liner, it will become increasingly difficult to hold the liner in the pulled position.  When there is sufficient vacuum to hold the liner from sliding back into the deep end, release the liner slowly.  Hold the liner into the shallow end corners using sand bags if necessary.

Now you need to examine the liner from all directions.  See if the liner is seated correctly in the bottom of the pool, or if it needs repositioning. Make adjustments where necessary (if possible while the vacuums remain running) by pulling the liner into place.  Before filling the pool, all folds or wrinkles must be pulled out flat.  It may be necessary to turn off vacuums and reposition the liner as needed.  Any wrinkles after this stage will remain permanently.

After properly positioning the liner, start filling the pool with water while the vacuums are still running.  If you are using garden hoses to fill your pool, fill the hopper with a few inches of water and place the end of the hoses on the bottom of the hopper.  Examine hose ends to be sure no sharp edges will damage the liner.  After six (6) to eight (8) inches of water has filled the deep end, turn off the water source and install main drain gasket and face plate while underwater.

Installation of Main Drain Face Plate

If the bottom material is still soft at this stage a ladder and board as described in " Bottom Fining Procedure" , should be used to avoid leaving footprints in the bottom.  Be extremely careful of sharp edges on the board that might puncture liner !  If your vermiculite floor is hard and you are walking down the slope to install the main drain, DO  NOT  put anything like screw a driver in your back pocket.  This slope can be very dangerous causing you to loose your footing and slip.  If you have anything in your back pocket such as a screw driver, you will probably put a large gash in you new pool liner. 

Proceed as follows:

1. Very carefully puncture the liner where the heads of the two (2) previously installed screws protrude.   Back screws out through vinyl liner and quickly position gasket and face plate.
2. Reinstall the two screws and partially tighten each.
3.Install remaining screws through face plate and gasket, puncturing vinyl as screws enters pilot hole in main drain body.  Tighten screws evenly and securely in a cross pattern sequence.  CAUTION: Don't over tighten, screws will break.
4. After completely installing face plate, trim vinyl from inside main drain face plate with sharp blade and install main drain grate.

Continue to fill pool with water.  It may be necessary to remove some wrinkles during the filling operation.  Wrinkles must be removed before they are covered with more than two inches of water.  If wrinkles remain, pump the water out, remove the wrinkles, and refill the pool.  Avoid this costly and time consuming error by removing wrinkles before they are covered with water.

When about six inches (6") maximum of water is in the shallow end, turn off the vacuums and remove hoses from behind the liner.  Note: Vacuums must remain running until the water level is six inches (6:) deep in the shallow end of the pool, or wrinkles will develop.

Remove vacuum hoses before they are covered with water and become impossible to remove.  Once vacuums are removed, continue filling the pool.

Filling the Pool with a Fire Hydrant or Tanker Truck

If the pool is to be filled from a high pressure source of water, such as a fire hydrant or tanker truck, fill the hopper with two feet (2") of water from a garden hose before the high pressure source is turned on.  Also install the main drain gasket and faceplate before connecting to the hydrant or the tanker truck arrives.  Direct the water from this source into the partially filled hopper.  This procedure should be followed because water from a high pressure source, if allowed to hit the hopper sides or bottom directly, can make an impression in the freshly poured vermiculite under the liner and disturb an otherwise smooth pool bottom.  Always flush the water source for a few minutes away from the pool area before filling the pool.  This removes any accumulated sediment that may be in the water hydrant lines.

Installation of Light Niche Plate

When the water level is approximately two inches (2") below the bottom of the light opening, install the light niche plate.

1. Remove the previously installed face plate screws by piercing the liner at the screw head and reversing the screws out of their holes.
2. Align the face plate, being sure it is right side up.  Refer to manufacturers instructions.  Insert screws through face plate into liner holes and partially tighten.
3. Insert remaining screws, piercing the liner, and tightening each in a cross pattern sequence.  Check all screws for tightness one final time.
4. Cut liner along inside edges of face plate.
5. Make sure copper or PVC conduit is installed to a point at least 12 inches above the pool coping before continuing to fill the pool or an overflow will result.

Consult the current National Electrical Code Handbook for specific requirements on installation and placement of the junction box.

Step Section Face Plates

For installation of the step section face plates, please refer to individual manufacturers instructions.  It is recommended that the step sections be sealed with tape behind the liner during vacuuming and filling.  When the water level has reached six inches (6") below the bottom of the face plate, the face plate must be installed before continuing to fill the pool.

Installation of Inlet Fitting Face Plates

When water is approximately two inches (2") below the inlets, install the inlet fitting face plates.
1. Remove previously installed face plate screws.
2. Position face plate and re-install the screws.  Partially tighten each.
3. Insert remaining two screws and tighten all screws in a cross pattern sequence.
4. Cut liner inside face plate.

Installation of skimmer Face Plate

When water is approximately two inches (2") below the bottom of skimmer opening, install the skimmer face plate.
1. Remove previously installed face plate screws.
2. Position face plate and re-install the screws at each corner.
3. Insert remaining screws and tighten in a cross pattern sequence.
4. Cut liner inside face plate.

Important: Do not fill pool any further until the backfilling is completed. Extra water will over stress the pool walls.

Tape panel joints with duct tape for good vacuum seal.

Tape back of coping for good vacuum seal.

Insert liner bead into coping.

Work your way towards the deep end.

Wedging a penny in the corners keeps the liner in place during filling.

Sand bags keep the liner from pulling into the deep end.

After installing coping clip, tape back of coping joint for good a vacuum.

Vacuum used to suck out wrinkles in pool liner.  Tape good to prevent air leaks.

Remove screws you put in to hold gasket in place.

Install gasket and faceplate.  This is usually done with 6 inches to 2 feet of water in deep end.

Install main drain antivortex grate.

A diving board is a good tool for putting the faceplate on the step section.

Install one vertical step faceplate first, followed by the bottom horizontal faceplate, concluding with the second vertical faceplate.

Either make a small slit in the liner at the screw, or just use a philips screw driver to back the screw out through the liner.

Tighten all screws with a good properly sized screw driver.

The finished product.

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