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INSTALLATION MANUAL

Pool Kits USA Installation Manual - Section III

Installation of Underwater Light Niche

Underwater lighting fixtures and fixture housings must be installed under the provisions of Article 680 of the current National Electric Code handbook.  Twelve-volt fixtures must be installed with an approved transformer.  When installed with proper niche, and according to Article 680 as above, both 12 volt and 110 volt fixtures require additional safeguards.  These safeguards include either differential circuit protector or ground detectors. Local codes must be consulted concerning electrical connections.  For underwater light installation instructions, please refer to individual manufactures instructions. 

Before installing the liner, glue the gasket onto light niche and insert four (4) faceplate screws into niche, (without faceplate.)  These will help locate screw holes after installation of liner.  The light niche is ready to receive the liner.

Installation of Rope Anchors

To ensure maximum safety for the non-swimmer, National Swimming Pool Institute residential and commercial code requires the installation of a safety rope designating the change of pool bottom from shallow to deep end.  This is also known as the "Break."  The rope line must be back a minimum of one foot (1') from the break slope.  The rope and float line will give in the center and you don't want a toddler who is at his maximum safe depth of water to slip on the slope.  Locate and drill 1/2 inch diameter holes in the coping and insert the threaded eyelet.   Tighten the eyelet by threading it into the nut welded on the end of the re-rod supplied in the kit. 

Resetting Dimensions

Once the footings have been poured, check the depth in various sections of the pool bottom and hopper in relation to the top of the wall, including the coping ( refer to construction plans).  If the excavator did his job correctly, the pool floor should be close to the exact depth.  This way, only a small amount of hand trimming will be necessary.  As mentioned before, the depths may be up to, but not greater than, two inches (2") deeper than required.  Under no circumstances can the dimensions be less than the blueprint shows.  Extra depth will help with the liner fit, especially when temperatures are above 85 F.  The final sizing of the pool bottom determines the smooth future appearance of the liner in the finished pool.

The hopper dimensions must be reset for finish grade dimensions.  These dimensions will allow for one and a half (1-1/2) to two (2) inches of vermiculite pool base and provide an accurate guide for finishing the pool bottom.

Layout of Finished Dimensions

Start the layout at the shallow end working towards the deep end.  Refer to your specific pool construction plans for measurements and finished grade.

A. Set two (2) pins, next to each wall, at the point shown on your print for finished dimensions.  Place a string on these pins across the width of the pool at a height of two inches (2") from the bottom of the wall panel.  This should be the same height as the vermiculite line of the panel.  This marks the end (termination) of the shallow end floor and the beginning of the slope, also termed " the break."

B. Measure an additional 14 feet from the break and set two more pins next to the wall running a string between these two pins, this time at the bottom of the wall panel.  Now measure four feet (4') away from each wall, along the string and toward the center, and drop a two foot (2') re-bar pin.  A plumb bob may be used for better accuracy.   Drive the two foot (2') re-bar pin down with a hammer.  This is now the end of the slope, (slope termination), and defines the width of the hopper side walls and the beginning of the deep end floor.  Measure from the string down to the re-bar pin and mark it at 54 inches.  This now defines the depth of the pool at eight feet zero inches (8'-0") from the top of the wall.  This determines the finish depth of the deep end (hopper).  Again, this can be made up to two inches (2") deeper, but never less than 8'-0".  The main drain can be set an additional two inches (2") lower.

C. Next, measure four feet (4') from the deep end wall towards the shallow end and set another re-bar pin on each wall.  Repeat the procedures for the end of the slope pins as in Step B and setting the depth.  Now run a string from the break pins down to slope termination pins and around the perimeter of the deep end floor.  Set these strings at the finished depth marks.  These are now your finished grade strings.

Checking the Final Grade

There should be a minimum of two inches (2") between the finish grade strings, and the excavation.  Walls, floor, and slope should be flat and smooth as possible to avoid excessive vermiculite use.  Hand trim areas that are too high.  Fill and pack low areas and voids with clean sand.  Trim out any protruding tree roots or rocks.  String across the slope diagonally from deep end corner pins to the two inch (2") vermiculite line on the bottom of the pool wall panels.  This will give you a more accurate view of the excavation.  An additional string run down the center of the shallow end, over the break, and down the slope to the beginning of the deep end floor will help trowelers in the finishing process, particularly for larger pools.  Be sure to check strings during finishing of the pool bottom to see that they are tight, and not sagging.  You are now ready to start troweling the pool bottom.

Before Starting Bottom Install Main Drain

Follow procedure shown at the bottom of this page.

Installing Pool Bottom

Mixing Procedure for Vermiculite Pool Base

1. A five (5) cubic foot or nine (9) cubic foot paddle type (mortar) mixer is recommended.

2. All the water goes into mixer first.  Check with supplier for recommended amounts.  Use a 55 gallon drum as a reservoir and 5 gallon pails to pour water into the mixer.

3. Next add the recommended amount of Portland Type 1 cement.  Most
vermiculite comes in 4 cu. foot bags.  For each 4 cu. foot bag of vermiculite, use 1/2 bag of Portland Type 1 cement.

4. Add one (1) complete bag of vermiculite pool base to the Portland cement/water mix.  With larger mixers it is possible to mix two (2) bags at a time, however, consistency may be difficult to maintain.

5. Do not over mix vermiculite.  After pouring vermiculite into mixer, run the mixer only about 40 to 60 seconds before dumping out the mix into a wheel barrel to avoid clumping.

6. Dump into a wheel barrow for transport to the pool.  These are general mixing instructions.  Consult your material supplier for individual manufacturer mixing procedures and quantities.  

Troweling and mixing tips (for sand see procedure shown at the bottom of this page).

1. Be sure your mixer is clean and free of debris.
2. Make sure to use the correct and same mixture every time so all batches are consistent.
3. Check your mix for visual characteristics, i.e. finished mix has the same dark gray color with no unmixed material visible, or clumps, or clods present.
4. Do not over mix.  As soon as the mix is consistent and unmixed material is not visible, it should come out of the mixer.
5. For sloped sections, use a stiffer mix.  Do this by using less water and the shortest mixing time possible.  The greater the degree of pitch, the stiffer your mix should be.
6. Do not install a vermiculite bottom on a day when there is a chance of rain in the forecast, or if rain is expected before the liner can be installed.
7. If substrate is excessively dry or contains a large percentage of sand, wet it down thoroughly before applying the mix.
8. If mix conveyed into the pool bottom turns out to be too wet for application to sloped surfaces, trowel up to the point where the mix begins to slide back.  Move sideways and apply to the next area.  Continue in this manner around the hopper.  When you return to the original area, the vermiculite will have set sufficiently to enable application of a second "course" on top of the first.
9. On extremely hot days when you have to use more water to get a consistent mix, always start with the normal amount of water and add water in small amounts (quarts not gallons) letting mix turn a couple turns.  Once you have determined the extra amount needed, increase the amount of water all at once on the next batch.
10. In areas where winter temperatures drop rapidly, often to sub-zero readings, some installers place the mix on a chicken wire mesh for added protection against future cracking.  Be sure the wire doesn't have sharp edges protruding through because these will puncture the liner.
11. Vermiculite pool base is not recommended for use in sidewalks around pools.

Bottom Finishing Procedure

Bottom finishing can be done by progressing either from shallow to deep end or deep to shallow end.  If you choose to finish from shallow to deep end, the work crew must be able to exit and enter the pool without disturbing the finished areas.  For this purpose, a wooden or aluminum extension ladder with a 16 inch x 36 inch board attached to the bottom should be set on deep end floor.  This will enable the work crew to climb out of the pool without disturbing the finished bottom.  Your vermiculite mix can be transported from the mixer to the pool using a wheelbarrow.  We recommend you use a      2" x 12" for a ramp to pour mixture over the pool wall directly into the pool bottom. The crew can then use a flat shovel for final placement.  A 2 x 2 nailed on the end of the 2" x 12" for the end of the wheelbarrow to catch against, will help keep the wheelbarrow and operator from accidentally falling into the pool.

Troweling the Bottom

When troweling the vermiculite pool base, a minimum thickness of 1-1/2 inches must be maintained throughout.  Spread the vermiculite out with a flat shovel into roughly 2 foot x 6 foot sections.  Use a 30" magnesium darby to spread and flatten the vermiculite.  The darby does most of the work in finishing.  Get the vermiculite as flat as possible by working the darby in several different directions.  Use a 16 inch pool trowel to close the surface and finish.  Do not over trowel the pool floor trying to get it slick, you only need to remove trowel marks and close the surface.  This section is now finished, and another can be started.

At the base of the hopper walls, create a two inch (2") fillet or radius.  This is done by placing vermiculite at the wall base and shaping the fillet to its proper radius with a glass jar or other circular object.  This fillet will give a smoother finish to the liner at the base of the wall than would a sharp base angle.  This will take stress off the liner.  A skilled troweler can usually form the two inch (2") fillet with only a trowel and mag.  It is important to avoid sharp edges or pockets in the pool bottom, thus avoiding areas for dirt to collect after the pool is filled with water.

As deep end slopes are completed and hopper bottom is troweled, strings and pins should be removed from the bottom and voids in the vermiculite troweled smooth.  Be careful to trowel out any "nerds" or crumbs (dried vermiculite balls from back edge of trowel) as work progresses.  These will show through the liner and the customer will think they are stones, especially at night with the light on, if they are not taken out.  If the bottom is troweled from deep to shallow it will be extremely difficult to keep crumbs out of finished bottom.  Debris cannot be swept out until bottom is cured.  Most vermiculite mixes are not ready to walk on for at least 48 hours, delaying liner installation.

When troweling shallow to deep, keep working crumbs and debris to a final corner of the hopper.  Trowel deep end walls first then the floor around drain and work your way onto the ladder board.  Before exiting the pool pull the tape off the main drain keeping the screw holes clean.  Insert two (2) face plate screws 1/2 way down into the drain, opposite of each other.  Leave the pool carefully to avoid crumbs, and gently lift out the ladder and ladder board.

Put duct tape over main drain for troweling pool bottom

Cut tape to make a neat edge.

Insert male adapter and glue to PVC pipe.

Vermiculite/sand ready to be troweled.

Moistening sand for troweling.

Check consistency of sand.

Raking out sand before troweling.

Floating and finishing sand.

Troweling finished around main drain.

Remove duct tape.

Install gasket.  One gasket goes under the liner and one on top.

The finished product.

Manual Table of Contents     Section I     Section II     Section III     Section IV     Section V