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The purpose of this manual is to provide homeowners
with innovative skills, and the best-known procedures for successful
installations. These easy to follow instructions will also help you avoid
painful and expensive experiences such as; improper grade, un-level pools,
loose plumbing fittings, settling concrete, and pool leaks to name just a
few.
This manual represents 46 years of experience,
research, and on the job procedures developed by our installation crews.
Our crews have trained dealers and homeowners throughout the US resulting in
over 10,000 below ground pools being installed under all types of soil
conditions. Feedback from dealers who have overcome difficult soil,
terrain, and weather problems, also constitutes a large contribution to the
knowledge base that is represented in this manual.
The material in this manual is intended as a guide
only. Pool Kits USA makes no representation, warranties, or guarantees of
any kind, expressed or implied, regarding this information.
If there are any discrepancies between this information and state or local
building codes, or if state or local codes are more comprehensive or
specific about construction, design, or safety, those regulations must
take precedence.
The National
Spa and Pool Institute Standards And Recommendations For The Installation Of
In- Ground Swimming Pools
These standards
and recommendations must be rigidly followed. They
are as follows:
1. The
deck must be finished with a non-slip surface, and sloped ¼” per foot
away from pool.
2. Steps, if installed, must be provided with a handrail as
instructed on individual construction plans.
3. Pool area must have barriers on four sides. All entries in
barrier must be provided with doors or gates that are equipped with
self-closing, self-latching mechanisms that are located above the height of
a toddler and are provided with hardware that enables permanent locking.
If the house is part of the the barrier, all doorways opening from the
house to the pool should be provided with childproof locks or window
screens. THE HEIGHT, nature, and description of the
barrier should be determined by consulting local codes. In the absence
of local swimming pool barrier codes, the barrier should be of a
construction that affords no external handhold or footholds, and of a
material, which is impenetrable by toddlers. This barrier should be at least
four feet in height, and completely surround the swimming pool.
Consultation with an expert in the area of swimming pool barrier design is
recommended.
4.
Installation of any electrical device by anyone other than a licensed
electrician is prohibited.
5.
Pools should be provided with a minimum of two points of exit in the
form of ladders, or steps, one in the deep portion of the pool, and one in
the shallow portion of the pool. If a step is used as a point of exit,
it must be located in the shallow end of the pool.
6. One skimmer must be provided for pools up to 799 square feet.
Two skimmers must be provided for pools 800 to 1600 square feet.
7. The following area safety signs should be installed in a prominent
location:
| A. |
NO DIVING EXCEPT FROM DIVING BOARD |
| B. |
DANGER, RISK OF DROWNING |
| C. |
BASIC LIFE SUPPORT |
| D. |
POOL RULES |
| E. |
SAFE DIVING |
8. The following safety equipment should be available:
| A. |
First aid kit |
| B. |
Reach pole with hook - not less than
12' long. |
| C. |
A 1/4" diameter throwing rope 1-1/2
times
the maximum width of the pool or 50' which-
ever is less, to which has been attached a ring
buoy with an outside diameter of approximately
15 inches or some similar floatation device.
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9. Main drains shall be of the anti-vortex type to prevent
entrapment.
10. Circulating equipment shall be adequate to
turn over complete gallonage in a maximum of 12 hours.
Layout of Pool Area
To provide working space
when the pool walls are set in place, all outer dimensions of the excavation
are made two feet larger than the actual pool size. For example,
excavation of a 16’ x 32’ pool is 20’ x 36’. These
enlarged dimensions are the “Excavation Dimensions.” The “Overdig ”
is the extra two foot excavation. The excavation is outlined by four
re-rods, one at each corner. Re-rods should be 3/8” x 2’ ("Re-rod" is
also referred to as “pins” throughout this manual). Drive the first
layout pin firmly into the ground in the excavation corner that has the
highest elevation. Using this re-rod as a working point, place the
second pin for the length of the pool keeping it equal distance from the
house, fence etc. so the pool will be parallel and square with its
surroundings. Now use two tapes hooking one of the tapes to each pin
and find the measurement for the width of the over dig on one tape and the
diagonal measurement on the other as shown on your print for the pool you
are building. Keep the measuring tape approximately level. If
the distance from the tape to the ground is over 2’, hold the top of the pin
at the correct measurement and drop so the pin will be the correct distance
apart from a level plane. When the excavation area (pool plus two feet
over dig) is staked out, run a nylon string taunt around these pins and spray
along the string with orange layout paint. Do not try to use any
other kind of paint. Layout paint dries almost immediately and won't
get tracked into the house by children or other adults who have come to
watch. If you cannot find layout paint, pound the pins flush with
the ground and use the string as a guide for the backhoe operator to follow.
He will appreciate you making an X with flour or something light colored so
he can readily see where the pins are so he doesn’t puncture a tire.
Once the excavation layout is squared, choose the
elevation for the top surface of the pool (top of coping). Normally
the surface will correlate with a surrounding walk, patio deck, or highest
ground elevation of the pool site. The top surface of the pool must be
three to four inches (3in to 4in) above the highest ground elevation or rain
and snow drainage problems will result.
To decide the depth of the
initial excavation, locate the highest ground elevation on the pool site.
If this point is not in the way of excavation and dirt removal, mark it
conspicuously for future reference during the pool construction. If it
is in the way of excavation, transpose this elevation to a deck, sidewalk,
mortar joint on a block basement wall, or by driving a stake in an out of
the way place. Add four inches (4in) to this elevation which is now
the elevation for the top surface of the finished pool. The depth of
the footing excavation will then be 45in (the pool wall of 42in) plus the
coping height of three inches (3in) below this reference point.
Remember, the reference point plus four inches (4in) is the top of the
finished pool including the coping. This is now known as the
“Finished elevation."
IMPORTANT!
ALWAYS CHECK THE EXCAVATION DEPTH FROM REFERENCE POINT.
The 45in depth, measured from the top of the coping,
will be maintained in the shallow end, and on the 24in wide working ledge or over
dig around pool wall perimeter. The first operation is to dig a trench
3 feet
wide to a uniform depth of 45in below the reference point selected as the top
surface of the pool. Dig from deep to shallow end then across the shallow
end of the pool. Setting the depth of the excavation requires a standard
calibrated survey shot stick and transit level. A 2 x 2 or other similar
stick approximately 12 feet long can be substituted for a standard shot stick.
Set up your transit in an area that gives you a clear view of
the pool sight, and won’t have to be moved during construction. After setting
and leveling the transit in an out of the way place, mark the shot stick. This is done by placing
the shot stick at the selected finished elevation and
marking it at the level indicated by the transit. With a pencil, mark the
stick at the point where the transit cross hairs intersect with the shot
stick. This marks the finished elevation. Measure up the shot stick 45in and
draw a line across the 2 x 2 putting a zero (0) in the middle of the line. It is
helpful to measure 2in above this line and put a dash and mark +2 so you can
tell the operator he is 2in to deep etc. If you put dashes below the
zero (0) and
mark them with a -2 etc., you can tell him approximately how much more he has to dig
out to make the trench level. This mark now determines the excavation depth
for the shallow end and over dig ledge. When the 45in mark is in the level
sight of the transit, you know that this part of the hole is at the proper depth. If the pencil mark is above the cross hairs, the excavation is not deep
enough and the pool will be higher than the predetermined elevation. A mark
below the cross hairs indicates the excavation is too deep and the pool wall
will be below the predetermined elevation. Accuracy at this stage will
require less shimming and adjusting of pool walls later.
After the trench on one side, and the shallow end are
done and level, dig out the shallow end using the shot stick frequently.
This will save you from having to do a lot of shaving later by hand. The next step is to run a
string along the exact panel placement line. Remember, that line is 2
feet in from your layout line. Use the trench that represents the length of the pool by holding a pin at
the topmost point and dropping it. Place a pin at each end making sure they
are the same distance apart as your print calls for. The end wall will need
to be square with this line using the 6’/8’/10’ method for squaring.
Now put a
pin in the opposite shallow corner. Next, measure the length of the shallow
end less 2 inches (i.e. if your shallow end is 8 feet, your slope starts at 7’-10”).
From here, the slope is
going to go down an additional 58 inches over 14 feet with the side
and end slopes going from your string down 58 inches and in 3 feet 10
inches. Measure in on both
sides of the shallow end and place a pin this represents the break where the bottom slopes down
to the hopper. Run a string across this break and begin digging the
slopes. All diving pool slopes from the shallow end to the deep end will be 14
feet long, and all side and end slopes on diving pools will be
4 feet long. On your shot stick measure up from your line with the
zero (0)
representing your depth at the bottom of the panels another 58 inches and draw
another line with another zero (0) in the center so you can be sure you have the deep
end hopper at the required depth.
Using the strings as a guide cut the earth with a
shovel along the strings. Simultaneously, the termination of the deep end
slope should be marked along the strings with re-rod pins. Refer to your
print for slope lengths and hopper depths.
IMPORTANT: Be careful not to dig into the area
outside the string to avoid an undercut of the 24 inch working ledge. Doing so
will remove the supporting ledge for your panels.
While digging the hopper, the excavator can sight
across to the opposite side of the pool and trim the hopper walls to the
proper slope as the final depth of the hole is reached. The excavated depth
of the hopper is four inches 4 inches deeper than the finished dimensions. This
allows for a two inch slope towards the main drain. Refer to the Construction
plans for installation of your particular pool size. For a diving pool this
total excavated depth is 8’-7” measured from the top of the coping. (The
original grade stake for the finished height of the pool.)
Check the hopper to make sure it is squared as you
proceed from the hopper toward the deep end. Square the hopper by laying out
the sides and ends of the hopper to the proper dimensions, and then measure
the diagonals. If the diagonals are equal, the layout is square.
The excavator should dig the plumbing trench at a depth
of at least 18 inches. It should reach from the pool over dig to the equipment
pad. This will save you from having to dig it by hand later.
Ordering Concrete Footing
The concrete footing should be ordered at least one day in advance to
avoid scheduling problems the day of the pour. Placing a “Will call”
is also recommended when ordering your concrete decking. Make sure you call
early the day of the pour or they may cancel your order.
Bolt Panels
After the hole is dug, set
the swimming pool wall panels on the supporting ledge and lean them against the side of the excavation
according to the panel diagram provided in the construction plans. Beginning
at any corner, assemble the first wall panel to the corner panel using the
appropriate corner brackets for the pool you are building. Do not tighten
the nuts and bolts completely at this time. Assemble the remaining pool walls,
leaving out the top bolt (the adjusting rod goes here).
The Skimmer and Inlet Placement
Placement for the skimmer and inlet fittings should now
be determined. It is best to place the skimmer near the center of one of the
long sides and down wind of the generally prevailing breezes. In this way
the wind will help direct surface dirt and debris to the skimmer for removal
from the pool. In addition, thoughtful consideration should be given to the
circulation pattern of the water when placing inlets. Strive to eliminate as
much as possible all dead spots in corners. If you do this, water temperatures in a heated
pool will be kept uniform, chemistry will be constant, and maintenance will
be kept to a minimum.
Walk Out Steps
When using a step section, individual manufacturer
instructions should be followed for installation procedures. To keep the
lower edge of the step straight when pouring the concrete footing, place a 2
x 4 or 2 x 6 across the lower front length of the step section, (inside the
pool), securing it with forming stakes so the concrete doesn’t push the step
out due to the pressure of the concrete. It is easier if you drill the holes
in the step flange before placing the step in the hole. Installing the
supports and holding them in place with duct tape makes setting the step in
cumbersome, but it is easier than trying to install them afterwards.
Tighten Bolts and Install Adjusting
Rods
Make sure the top of the panels and the inside face of
the panels are flush, then tighten the bolts and nuts firmly. For the top bolt
use the threaded adjusting rod putting a nut on the bent end then putting
it through the top hole and tightening the second nut firmly. Put a nut on the
long threads and through the dead man approximately 5 inches back. Using a
hand mall, pound
the dead man into the ground to the panel height. By turning these nuts,
plumb the walls.
Squaring the Pool Walls
After all pool walls are assembled, position the
complete assembly absolutely square and parallel. Do this by measuring
length, width and diagonals as found in your construction prints. First, fit
the pool to the deep end walls excavation as close as possible. An easy way
to achieve squaring is by setting an alignment string along the bottom
length of the pool wall, and straightening a long wall first. Recheck the
widths of the pool at the corners. Then measure the diagonals of the pool
walls corner to corner. When the dimensions are equal, the pool is squared. Straighten the remaining walls. When the wall assemblies are straight,
square, and parallel, drive 3/8” x 2 foot re-bar pieces into holes located in the
bottom flange of the pool wall panels along the entire pool perimeter. Pin
the corners first. Leave 6 inches of re-rod extending above the bottom flange.
Leveling the Pool to the Predetermined
Elevations
Check the level at each panel joint and at each of the
step’s four corners. Level the pool walls with the transit using shims
under the pool walls as necessary. (1/4 inch masonite cut into 4 inch x 6
inch squares works
well for shims). This procedure is very important and enough time should be
devoted to the leveling procedure to assure an absolutely level pool.
Following the leveling procedure, plumb the pool walls using adjusting rods
and dead man anchors or bracing system. To achieve a straight sight line and
plumb walls, stretch an alignment string along the top of the pool walls
from corner to corner, on each straight section of wall.
Installation of Main Drain
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POOL SIZE |
YARDS OF CONCRETE |
| 12 X 24 |
2-1/2 YARDS |
| 14 X 28 |
3 YARDS |
| 16 X 32 |
4 YARDS |
| 18 X 36 |
4-1/2 YARDS |
| 20 X 40 |
5 YARDS |
| 24 X 44 |
5-1/2 YARDS |
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